Illampu 6.360m.
The guardian of the north...
The guardian of the north...
That mountain is rarely climbed, due to its reputation as "THE MOST TECHNICAL MOUNTAIN IN THE CORDILLERA"
5 Days
Expert
May - July
6.360 m.a.s.l.
This beautiful and feared mountain is located at the northern end of the Cordillera Real.
This mountain is technically and physically difficult by any of the routes.
Due to its size, its majesty and its large walls of rock and ice, the Illampu is considered by the locals to be king, chief and mallku (mythical authorities respected by the local population). It is also the biggest prize for any mountaineer who visits Bolivia.
We leave the city at mid-morning, we will drive for 3 hours until we reach Sorata (a main town), we will spend the afternoon organizing the necessary logistics for our adventure (food, porters, muleteers)/ night in a hostel.
After a good breakfast we will organize our equipment and take our 4x4 to drive for about 1 hour to almost 4,200m.(Lakatia) Our team of muleteers(with mules) will be ready to help us carry our equipment to Aguas calientes, the base camp at 4.850 m. usually 3 to 4 hours of walking/night in a tent.
Today a local team of porters will help us with all the equipment to go to a high camp at 5,600m. The walk lasts 4 to 5 hours, in a rugged terrain, rock and moraine will be the constant on this trail./night in Tents
We will leave early, on a broken glacier we will approach the main wall at a constant 45 to 50 degrees until we reach the main ridge, we will continue along this ridge until the middle part where there is a crack that pushes us to the north face and we will find another wall small but more exposed, this climb expresses the best of the alpine technique, finishing this wall, all that remains is to return to the main ridge and continue to the summit, the views from this point are incredible, but this has not yet been finished, with great care we will begin the descent in Sometimes rappelling will be necessary, and after a long day we will arrive at our high camp, our porter friends will be ready to lower the equipment to the base camp (it is a fairly long day, we must prepare for this) / night in tents
After a good breakfast, we will pack our equipment, the mules will be ready to take us back to Lakatia, our transportation will be ready to take us back to Soraa where we will have lunch and in the afternoon we will return to La Paz
Bilingual Mounatin guide (Spanish- English)
Private transport
Mountain Equipment / Helmet, technical Ice axe, Harness, Gaiters, Ropes, Mountaineering boots, crampons.
Loding in family house
National park tickets
Logistics /(mules to base camp and porter`s to high camp)
Food during the expedition
Camping equipment: mountain tents, dining tents, kitchen tent, kitchen utensils
Rucksack (35Lts)
Warm or winter clothing and waterproof clothing
All season´s sleeping bag
Headlamp, sunglasses and sunscreen